Main entrance and Deepa Sthamba (light tower) at the Ramnathi Devasthan
The Ramnathi Devasthan (place of God, or Temple) in Ponda, Goa is our family's ancestral temple. Millenia ago, groups of Konkani families settled in extended family-based communities in Goa. Each community had their own spirits, which protected them from evil and satisfied their spiritual curiosity. The spirits and associated deities also received gratitude for agricultural and female fertility. With time, these spirits evolved into a full-blown God. Ramnath was the benevolent God of our community. His two spouses (Shanteri & Kamakshi) probably represented the heightened fertility required for survival in those days. And we have our own ferocious spirit – Betal, who is responsible for ‘taking care’ of evil.
When members of the extended family leave the community in search of opportunities, they maintain connections to their family gods, also called the Kuladevata. “Kula” refers to the home-base of the extended family community, where the lineage of the family can be traced back to. Thus the Ramnath deity is our family’s Kuladevata. All members of the original community and their descendants are called Kulavis (core family members). All Konkanis will have a Kuladevata Devasthan and are in turn kulavis of that temple.
Ramnath Dev
Devi Shanteri at the Ramnath Devasthan, Goa
Devi Kamakshi at the Ramnath Devasthan, Phonda, Goa
When Madhvacharya’s fervor spread through Karnataka in the 12th and 13th century, the Ramnathi Devasthan became incorporated into the Vaishanava tradition and became part of the larger Hindu Dharma. Thus Ramnath Dev became a local incarnate of Vishnu, and his spouses Shanteri & Kamakshi became incarnates of “Lakshmi.”
During the Portugese Inquisition in the 1500’s, all Konkani (and Hindu) temples in Goa were destroyed, and churches built in their place. Many Hindus were forced to convert and many others sacrificed their lives for their faith. Libraries, scriptures and literature were systematically destroyed. Devotees smuggled temple deities to safe haven across the Zuari River in what was then part of Goa ruled by a Muslim Sultan from Bijapur. Many Konkanis escaped with few belongings to start new lives elsewhere. Some migrated north to Maharashtra, and most migrated south and settled along the Karnataka Coast. Konkani communities also settled in Cochin and other parts of Kerala.
Note: See this post on Revisionism of the Portuguese Inquisition
Devout Konkanis built small temples in each town they settled and kept their faith alive. With the literature destroyed, a dispersed and migrant community maintained the konkani language as an oral tradition. In the 1700s, the Portuguese ended the Inquisition under threat of the British taking over the colony. A status quo was maintained till 1961 when the Portuguese finally left Goa and it became an Indian state. Konkani is now a recognized distinct language in India.
Konkanis dispersed all over the world, thronged to the remote corners of Goa to pay their respects at their Kuladevata temples. Many maintained in wooden shacks were refurbished. Konkani temples are now thriving complexes, representing a symbol of a resilient people; hard working and god fearing.
Considering the circumstances, Konkani temples rebuilt over the decades are not architectural masterpieces. Further, all modern Konkani temples are not where their original communities grew, but clustered across the Zuari River, within 10 miles of each other.
Under the Portugese rule, devotees visited clandestinely from the surrounding states, often involving day-long walks through forests. Appropriately, Konkani temples provide basic accommodations to their devotees. Today, accommodations have been upgraded, but are still spartan. Devotees can get a very basic room at the temple for between $1-$2 per night. One of Goa’s best kept secrets, I’d say. The temples in Ponda are about an hour from Panji the capital, or from the airport near Madgao.
Every time I visit India, I make a beeline to our kuladevata Ramnathi Devasthan in Goa. It is the tradition at Ramnathi and other Konkani temples, for kulavis to visit the deity as soon as we arrive – even before we wash our feet. We leave our footwear at the door and with dusty feet rush inside to pay homage to our father protector, guardian and closest confidant. Akin to the return of a prodigal son (or daughter); our father wants to see us ASAP, even before we wash our feet. This first visit is thus called “dhool bhaet” (dusty meeting). Only after we have visited the temple, do we visit the office, rent a room, freshen up and come back into the temple for a proper service.
Due to the remoteness of the area, there are no restaurants around, but for a small shack serving bananas and cold drinks (see pic of shack in this post). We usually ask and are invited to the priest’s house for a delicious konkani vegetarian meal – served on a banana leaf. Per tradition, we leave a small donation for the priest’s family. On many occasions, temple has open meals sponsored by devotees.
I usually spend a few days resting in divine grace, before heading south to visit our relatives and friends.
After learning the history of the Konkani temples, my visits to our kuladevata have more fervor and passion. A recognition of the sacrifices made by our ancestors, so that we may live with their chosen faith; A re-affirmation of my own faith and importantly courage ~ courage to defend my faith. Never again will our homes and places of worship be ransacked, and we be forced to choose between the sword or the cross.
Never Again!
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- Main entrance and Deepa Sthamba (light tower) at the Ramnathi Devasthan
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- Side entrance of the main hall at the Ramnathi Devasthan, Goa
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- Tulsi Vrindavan at the Ramnathi Devasthan
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- Linga representing the Niraakaar roopa of Ramnath Dev at Ramnathi Devasthan
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- Ramnath Dev
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- Ramnath Dev
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- Devi Shanteri at the Ramnath Devasthan, Goa
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- Devi Kamakshi at the Ramnath Devasthan, Phonda, Goa
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- Every Monday evening Ramnath Dev is taken out in a hand carried palki (palanquin); here it is decorated with flowers for the evening festivities
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- Palki for Ramnath Dev ready to leave the temple
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- Ramnath Dev sitting in the Palki
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- Palki of Ramnath Dev going around the temple
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- Devotees follow the palki around the temple. The deepa sthamba is beautifully lit
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- Deepa Sthamba (light tower) at the Ramnath Devasthan, Goa
Contact Details for Shree Ramnath Devasthan
Ramnathi, Ponda, Goa 403401
Tel: (0832) 2335281; 2335041; 2335174
Email: inquiry AT Ramnathi DOT org
www.Ramnathi.org
My Posts Related to Ramnathi Devasthan and other Konkani Temples:
- Flower sellers at the Ramnathi Devasthan
- Blue Skies: Ramnathi Devasthan
- Chai Time
- Mangeshi Devasthan
- Cucumber seller at the Mangeshi Devasthan
- Mahalakshmi Devasthan, Goa
- Portuguese Inquisition and Revisionism
- Sacred Places: Christian Aid Flowing to India
Marathoner, Professor, Author, Citizen Journalist, Fitness Nut, Foodie, Meera's father, Hindu, Scientist, Photographer.
HELLO ARUN MAAM
WE ARE CREATED A FREE WEBSITE FOR GSBs, I NEED YOUR HELP (IF POSSIBLE)
WE NEED THE DETAILS OF ALL KULDEVASTHAN OF GSBs IN GOA, SHIRALI, ANKOLA ETC ,, CAN WE EXPEXXT THE COMPLETE DETAILS OF ALL TEMPLES WITH MAX DETAILS WITH PHOTOS?… IF YES THEN PLEASE SEND THEM TO konkanipeople@gmail.com our websit: www,konkanipeople.weebly.com
regards,
KOTA GAJANAN HEGDE
Ramnathi devasthana baddal chi mahiti vachatana rom rom pulakit zale.Dhanyavad.
What a sad, but enriching history of our kuladevata. We should be proud of the sacrifices of our ancestors and pass on this “knowledge” to our next generation.
Dev Barae karo.
Arun
Shanbhag mam felt so happy your early reply and wish you a happy samsar padvo.(yugadi)
Mahesh,
If you get a chance, take a look at the updated pics.
Arun
dear arun sir.
We visit ramnathi after our wedding two years before that we didnt get chance to go there then we got some problems in life means in my job as iam working in airlines i got break in job so went to temple with my (wife) and wife’s family. (E)ven they came to kamakshi they visit us and did dhool bet and told me that they felt really happy to been ramnathi with nice facility. We had food at bhatmam’s home; they treat us good. We felt really happy with your information about the temple so thought to reply you arun sir.
Today we reached home even we too shanbhag but some of our relatives use shenoy . Thank you for the information about ramnathi we gave varbeti there with our one year daughter pranamya and let most of the ppl get information about the kuldev who didnt know like us once again thank you sir.
Our one mistake is we forgot to get the snap of god because we were in hurry as we visited only for one day cos we wear getting hurry to catch train and get the ticket as there was no reservation sir one favour we wanted that snap of a god if you have if you dont mind sir thank you.
Hi Mahesh,
I am glad you had a wonderful time visiting Ramnathi. The food at the BhatMaam’s house is always superb. Love it.
Congratulations on your daughter ~ May she grow to be a healthy and beautiful lady.
No problem about the pic. Since many have asked me, I will be posting a complete set of pics here soon. Will let you know.
Thank you for sharing your experiences and Best Wishes,
Arun
Dear Mr Shanbag,
You have beautifully described everything.. Ramnathi is our Kulladevata as well and I am going for this year’s MahaShivratri.. After ages.. Never knew so much about the temple and its history.. It was a great pleasure to read about it.. Great work..
Yash,
Thank you for stopping by during the Ramnath teru and introducing yourself. Just returned from the MahaShivratri celebrations. What an amazing program. I want to go back every year!
BTW, I did not see you at the Bichu family gathering on Wednesday. You are part of that family right?
Also, will post pics and videos once I get back to Boston. Nice meeting you.
Arun
Dear Sir,
I am willing to buy a residential plot of 2-3 Guntha (Max. 4 Guntha) Near Ramnathi / in Bandora Village. Could you please help me to get details in this context?
My E-mail ID is s.omkar108@gmail.com
Thanking you!
Sanjog Tilak
Unfortunately, I am not in that business. You could contact a real estate agent in Goa?
Best
arun