post

Ramnathi Devasthan, A Konkani Temple

Main entrance and Deepa Sthamba (light tower) at the Ramnathi Devasthan, Goa

Main entrance and Deepa Sthamba (light tower) at the Ramnathi Devasthan


The Ramnathi Devasthan (place of God, or Temple) in Ponda, Goa is our family's ancestral temple. Millenia ago, groups of Konkani families settled in extended family-based communities in Goa. Each community had their own spirits, which protected them from evil and satisfied their spiritual curiosity. The spirits and associated deities also received gratitude for agricultural and female fertility. With time, these spirits evolved into a full-blown God. Ramnath was the benevolent God of our community. His two spouses (Shanteri & Kamakshi) probably represented the heightened fertility required for survival in those days. And we have our own ferocious spirit – Betal, who is responsible for ‘taking care’ of evil.

When members of the extended family leave the community in search of opportunities, they maintain connections to their family gods, also called the Kuladevata. “Kula” refers to the home-base of the extended family community, where the lineage of the family can be traced back to. Thus the Ramnath deity is our family’s Kuladevata. All members of the original community and their descendants are called Kulavis (core family members). All Konkanis will have a Kuladevata Devasthan and are in turn kulavis of that temple.

Ramnath Dev at the Ramnathi Devasthan

Ramnath Dev

pics of Devi Shanteri at the Ramnath Devasthan, Ponda, Goa by Arun Shanbhag

Devi Shanteri at the Ramnath Devasthan, Goa

pics of Devi Kamakshi at the Ramnath Devasthan, Goa by Arun Shanbhag

Devi Kamakshi at the Ramnath Devasthan, Phonda, Goa


When Madhvacharya’s fervor spread through Karnataka in the 12th and 13th century, the Ramnathi Devasthan became incorporated into the Vaishanava tradition and became part of the larger Hindu Dharma. Thus Ramnath Dev became a local incarnate of Vishnu, and his spouses Shanteri & Kamakshi became incarnates of “Lakshmi.”

During the Portugese Inquisition in the 1500’s, all Konkani (and Hindu) temples in Goa were destroyed, and churches built in their place. Many Hindus were forced to convert and many others sacrificed their lives for their faith. Libraries, scriptures and literature were systematically destroyed. Devotees smuggled temple deities to safe haven across the Zuari River in what was then part of Goa ruled by a Muslim Sultan from Bijapur. Many Konkanis escaped with few belongings to start new lives elsewhere. Some migrated north to Maharashtra, and most migrated south and settled along the Karnataka Coast. Konkani communities also settled in Cochin and other parts of Kerala.

Note: See this post on Revisionism of the Portuguese Inquisition

Devout Konkanis built small temples in each town they settled and kept their faith alive. With the literature destroyed, a dispersed and migrant community maintained the konkani language as an oral tradition. In the 1700s, the Portuguese ended the Inquisition under threat of the British taking over the colony. A status quo was maintained till 1961 when the Portuguese finally left Goa and it became an Indian state. Konkani is now a recognized distinct language in India.

Konkanis dispersed all over the world, thronged to the remote corners of Goa to pay their respects at their Kuladevata temples. Many maintained in wooden shacks were refurbished. Konkani temples are now thriving complexes, representing a symbol of a resilient people; hard working and god fearing.

Considering the circumstances, Konkani temples rebuilt over the decades are not architectural masterpieces. Further, all modern Konkani temples are not where their original communities grew, but clustered across the Zuari River, within 10 miles of each other.

Under the Portugese rule, devotees visited clandestinely from the surrounding states, often involving day-long walks through forests. Appropriately, Konkani temples provide basic accommodations to their devotees. Today, accommodations have been upgraded, but are still spartan. Devotees can get a very basic room at the temple for between $1-$2 per night. One of Goa’s best kept secrets, I’d say. The temples in Ponda are about an hour from Panji the capital, or from the airport near Madgao.

Every time I visit India, I make a beeline to our kuladevata Ramnathi Devasthan in Goa. It is the tradition at Ramnathi and other Konkani temples, for kulavis to visit the deity as soon as we arrive – even before we wash our feet. We leave our footwear at the door and with dusty feet rush inside to pay homage to our father protector, guardian and closest confidant. Akin to the return of a prodigal son (or daughter); our father wants to see us ASAP, even before we wash our feet. This first visit is thus called “dhool bhaet” (dusty meeting). Only after we have visited the temple, do we visit the office, rent a room, freshen up and come back into the temple for a proper service.

Due to the remoteness of the area, there are no restaurants around, but for a small shack serving bananas and cold drinks (see pic of shack in this post). We usually ask and are invited to the priest’s house for a delicious konkani vegetarian meal – served on a banana leaf. Per tradition, we leave a small donation for the priest’s family. On many occasions, temple has open meals sponsored by devotees.

I usually spend a few days resting in divine grace, before heading south to visit our relatives and friends.

After learning the history of the Konkani temples, my visits to our kuladevata have more fervor and passion. A recognition of the sacrifices made by our ancestors, so that we may live with their chosen faith; A re-affirmation of my own faith and importantly courage ~ courage to defend my faith. Never again will our homes and places of worship be ransacked, and we be forced to choose between the sword or the cross.

Never Again!



Contact Details for Shree Ramnath Devasthan
Ramnathi, Ponda, Goa 403401
Tel: (0832) 2335281; 2335041; 2335174
Email: inquiry AT Ramnathi DOT org
www.Ramnathi.org


My Posts Related to Ramnathi Devasthan and other Konkani Temples:


Comments

  1. sureshshet says:

    dear arun shanbhag Ramnath shanteri kamkshi temple belongs to sraswat or daivadnya brahmins (both), my gotra is vacha my father, grand father cmg ramnathi more than 50 yaers. now som people says our kuldevta shiroda kamkshi, if posible pls clarfiy. suresh shet

    • Suresh,
      You gotra is likely “Vatsya”, same as ours, and we are certainly devotees of Shanteri Kamakshi Ramnath muLa-devasthan in Ponda, Goa. Some time in the past, ‘a’ Kamakshi devi came and joined Ramnath; it is likely that might have been the Shiroda Kamakshi. Many families accept the Shiroda Kamakshi as their leading Shakti, there is nothing improper about that.

      I would suggest you ask the elders in your family, or your Purohit (Bhatmaam). He would be the best person to know for sure. Also, if you go to the Ramnathi or the Shiroda Kamakshi temples and ask the priests, they would be able to tell you correctly.

      BTW, I have been to the Shiroda Kamakshi temple and it is beautiful.
      Dev barae karo.
      Arun

  2. Sanjay shenoy says:

    ..nice photos..GOOD JOB……

  3. Purushothama Kini Ullal says:

    Hi everyone, If there is any Ullal Kini family members here, please join “Ullal kini family ” in http://www.myheritage.com

    Just a humble try to bring all family members under one roof and get conected to their roots…

  4. rajesh says:

    Shanbhag I had been to Ramnathi last week, a massive master plan has been prepared. The plan may get approval. The pictures of the plan and other details i have uploaded in GOOGLE+
    (at emails2rajesh@gmail.com)

    • Rajesh,

      During my last visit to Ramnathi in September, I had seen the posters displayed in the Maha Mandapa, but did not get a chance to study them carefully, nor did I get a chance to chat with any of the bhat-maams on this.

      Thank you for posting these. Will check them out. Arun

      • Uday says:

        Hi Arun, can u please email ur number to my personal email address kirksanchez@yahoo.in .

        I wanted to talk to u regarding the travel from madgao railway station to our temple. als, want to visit other temples like malshi ,etc.

        Thanks!

        Uday

        • Hi Uday,
          From Madgao train station, the temples are about an hour ride away and could cost about Rs 800 (USD 16). Since the temples are part of the tourist circuit, any of the cabbies at the Train will be able to take you there. You only need to say, you want to visit all the Konkani temples in “PONDA,” and they will bring you there and back.

          Have a great trip.
          Arun
          If you want more info, send me mail to arunshanbhag at gmail

  5. Savita Shanbhag says:

    Thanks sir, i got the blessings from my kuldevat.

  6. veena singh says:

    hi
    arun jii

    plz upload ramnath bhagwan clear pic

    thanks and regards

  7. shruti says:

    dear kuladevata…SHANTERI KAMAKSHI RAMNATHI….thanks for your blessings …..bless my son and our family….and arun shanbhag thanks for posting those spiritually uplifting photos!

  8. Sumanth Kini says:

    Dear Mr. Arun Shanbhag,

    Can you please inform the contact tel nos / Contact Person of Ramnathi Temple for booking of the rooms and e-mail id if any, Plannning to visit in First week of April

  9. Param says:

    beautiful

  10. V.G.Karnataki says:

    Mr, Arun Shanbhag and my dear community memebrs, kindly note that the temples in Goa belong to “Saraswat Community” and their devotees are “Saraswat”

    Therefore, I request you, not to use “Konkani temples”. You may call Saraswat Temples.

    I am “Saraswat” too! Lord Shri Ramnath is our family’s Kuladevata. I am proud of my Lord Shri Ramnath.

  11. Ganesh P Shenoy says:

    Hi

    I would require the contact number of Shanteri Kamakshi Ramnathi Temple in Kumta. Please arrange to forward the same on the captioned email id.

    Thanks and Regards
    Ganesh S

    • Even though I visit the Shanteri Kamakshi Temple in Kumta often, I do not have their telephone number. Perhaps, I will be able to get one for you.

      Do you want to perform a puja/ or do you want to contact any of the management?

  12. GIRISH says:

    I am visiting Ramnathi Temple with family on September 26 during Navratri. As usual, the rooms are alloted on lottery system, i have applied for the same. In case i am not alloted room by lottery system can u suggest me where i would be to arrange my family accomodation near by to temple.

    • Navratri is a difficult time to get a room in Ramnathi.

      I can recommend several things. You can always contact the nearby Konkani Temples; ShantaDurga (next to Ramnathi), or Mangeshi, Mahalakshmi, Narayani, or even Kamakshi at Shirado and see if you can get rooms at those temples. From them you could just take a rickshaw to Ramnathi. I know it is not convenient, but prolly the best alternative.

      Sorry, I don’t have any contact info for these temples. Wishing you the best and have a wonderful visit.

      Dev Baro Karo.
      Arun

  13. Rajiv Venkatesh Shanbhag says:

    hi kaka i m rajiv from bhandup i like your words for our ramnathi devasthan means konkani temple and i also proud that you are my kaka. thanks …….

    • Hi Rajiv:
      Glad you are enjoyed the site. We have a rich heritage that we should proudly share with others; and that too using the latest tools of communications.

      Also, I am moderating a Konkani Community blog
      konkanikesari.wordpress.com
      if you want to write, or know others who want to share articles or announcements with the Konkani community, please let me know.

      Arun

  14. medha says:

    Hi we are planning to visit our kuldevtta at Nageshi temple Ponda.. can you please mail me the temple ph number…

    thanks

    medhashenoy.

    • Medha:
      I apologize for the delay in replying to your post.
      Sorry, I do not have the contact details for the Nageshi Temple.

      If you do visit, will you please forward me the contact details?
      Many thanks and have a great trip.
      Arun

  15. ramnath Burye says:

    sir, very well written sir thanks

  16. MS says:

    Arun Ji,
    I have been to these temples(Ramnathi,Mangeshi and Nageshi) quite many times.
    I just loved it there !!
    On one of those trips to Goa my ‘Kaka’ (My Mavashi’s husband )who happens to be utmost religious, took us to all these temples one by one ….by evening we were left with very little time to visit the beach (which was my brother’s and my primary plan) aah !! My kid brother was nearly in tears by the end of the day. Ofcourse ! we did have a real ‘dhammal’ time, at the beach next day!!

    But these temples are really appealing.Doesn’t one of these mandirs have an ‘khanaval’(eatery) where the prasad is served ?(I am trying to trust my memory but may be I am wrong)

    Manasi.
    Seattle,WA

    • Hi Manasi:
      Sorry for the delay i replying to your kind note! Yes, as kids, temples were boring, except if they served delicious “prasad!” I can empathize with your brother :-) )

      yes, all the temples have a khanavaLi which serves food to all devotees on functions or if an Anna Daan is sponsored by devotees! In most Goa temples, you can always go to the priest’s house for a nice delicious home cooked meal – you are expected to pay about 10-15 rupees for a meal! if you have a large party, it is important to info the priest in advance, so they don’t run out of food!

      Awesome temples, no?
      Thank you Manasi!

  17. shrikanth says:

    priest who gives excellent lunch is Prakash Bhatt right?

  18. Ravindra:

    I don’t know that address of that temple (though I have visited it). If I find out, will get back to you.

    And a great suggestion to include the address and contact info for each of the temples.

    Namaskar!

  19. ravindra says:

    i want address of Devakikrishna Ravalnath Temple. goa. can u help me?. and i request u that, just put all konkani temples address and contact no in your achievement if u know.

    Thanking u
    RAVINDRA

  20. Hi Ranjan:
    Thank you for your kind words. I was recently in Kumta and Herwatta.

    you can send me mail at
    arun AT shanbhag dot org

    or ask Murli Prabhu

  21. Ranjan Kini says:

    hi,
    I am ranjan kini staying in herwatta of Kumta taluk. I saw u r collection about kumta in website. thank you for your valueable work done in the website about kumta. I want u r present and parmanent address.

    thanking you,

    ranjan r kini

  22. manohar says:

    hi Arun,

    very good details u have given about our temple.. it is indeed good to know about our devasthan… very well done once again..

    quick question.. are u from victoria high school in mahim..

  23. Thank you Manohar for your kind words.

    I do want to visit Lotli, the original location of our temple. If you have specific directions, please let me know.

    Sorry, I did not go to Vic. high School. Best Wishes Arun

Trackbacks

  1. [...] Ramnathi Devasthan, A Konkani Temple [...]

  2. [...] Dhool Bhaet at the Ramnathi Devasthan, I walked around heavenly rice fields and stopped by the canteen outside the temple for a cup of [...]

  3. [...] my earlier post on the Ramnathi Devasthan It is the tradition at Ramnathi and other Konkani temples, for kulavis to visit the deity as soon [...]

  4. [...] image of Kamakshi, a loving form of Durga, in her garbha griha at the Ramnathi Devasthan, Ponda, Goa.. The utsav murthy, which is taken around the temple in a palanquin, is placed in a [...]

  5. [...] Ramnathi Devasthan, A Konkani Temple [...]

  6. [...] of Ponda, which was then not under Portuguese control. There our temples were rebuilt. Today the Ramnathi Devasthan stands magnificent, a symbol of a resilient people. And we vow: Never [...]

  7. [...] by Arun Shanbhag Due to my interest in Konkani Temples in Goa, and particularly our Kuldevata Ramnathi Devasthan I have been researching books on the Portuguese occupation in Goa. During the Portuguese [...]

  8. [...] numerous temples. Temples near our home in Colaba are the first. A trip to our family deity in Goa: Shanteri Kamakshi Ramnathi Devasthan, Ponda, is a given. We have ooh-ed and aah-ed at exquisite artistry served in devotion to the divine [...]

  9. [...] (murthy of Kamakshi, a form of Durga Devi at the Ramnathi Devasthan in Ponda, Goa.) Notes excerpted from my book, Prarthana: A Book of Hindu Psalms; © Arun Shanbhag [...]

  10. [...] (murthy of Kamakshi, a form of Durga Devi at the Ramnathi Devasthan in Ponda, [...]

  11. [...] (murthy of Kamakshi, a form of Durga Devi at the Ramnathi Devasthan in Ponda, [...]

  12. [...] 27th, 2004 by Arun Shanbhag Ramnathi, Goa: On every trip to India, we first visit our ancestral Ramnathi Temple in Ponda, Goa. On the cab ride from the train station, you are taken-in by the lush fields rimmed [...]

  13. [...] Arun Shanbhag When in India last September, I made a short trip to visit our ancestral temple Ramnathi Devasthan near Ponda, Goa. The early morning flight reached Goa before 8:00. Enroute to the temple I saw this [...]

  14. [...] paid a short visit to Goa. Starting on the early morning flight from Mumbai and after visiting the Ramnathi Devasthan, we arrived at the beach-front resort in Colva, early in the afternoon. We were so fatigued, both of [...]

  15. [...] This follows a longer write-up on the Ramnathi Devasthan. [...]

  16. [...] than a day after reaching Mumbai, we were off to Goa on the Konkan Railway; to visit our kuladevata Ramnathi Devasthan and attend my nephew's Upanayana (see previous post). The night ride is ideal for catching-up [...]

  17. [...] 2006 by Arun Shanbhag Kamakshi Canteen, Ponda, Goa After quickly performing the puja at the Ramnathi Devasthan, I sneak away to the canteen beside the front entrance. They make the best missal and ussal paav. As [...]

  18. [...] On every visit to India, I follow a similar schedule. We head to Goa to pay our respects at the Ramnathi Devasthan in Ponda. From there we head south along the coast to [...]

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