Kailash-Manasarovar Yatra: Across the Tibetan Plateau to Saga, Day 6
Saga Elevation: 4,600 m (15,091 ft), via Lalung La Pass: 4,850 m (15,900 ft)
After the extra day in Nyalam (3,750 m; 12,303 ft) for acclimatization and a short hike, we packed and left for the settlement of Saga. We were warned this would be a long day. While only 336 km away, the roads were essentially washed out, and we’d mostly be driving ‘off road.’ The journey would take take us nearly 10 hours and it was the roughest day so far.
As we rode uphill, we left behind whatever little greenery we had seen. Only down in the valley could we see a mosaic of green fields. There is no greenery anywhere else on the mountains. And once we were up on the plateau proper, nothing grew at 15,000 ft and the barren sandy land stretched as far as the eye could see.
As the plateau is ringed by the Himalayan mountains, we had hoped to drive by some spectacular scenery along the way. But it was an overcast day with cold drizzly rain and snow at the higher elevations. The high point at Lalung La Pass (15,900 ft) was also unimpressive. It was festooned with prayer flags and prayer wheels. But it was bitterly cold and windy to be outside the Land Cruiser. And it was snowing – in the middle of their summer! The valley and the mountains were smothered in dense fog.
Along the route, there were no signs of any settlement. Absolutely NO traffic on the roads either. All day, we were the only folks on the road. No restaurants, gas stations, or anything else. No People! It was just us and the barren earth, going on and on for ever!
To arrange for lunch, one of the kitchen trucks and staff had left Nyalam the previous night and stopped at a pre-determined place to prepare lunch. After a long and bumpy ride, the blue-green dining tent over the horizon was a sight for sore eyes; and we looked forward to getting out of the Land Cruisers, stretching our legs and into tents, for something warm!
After lunch, the weather did clear up a bit and we continued our drive over hills and plateaus; and through ravines and water logged streams, till we crossed the wide river Brahmaputra; and on its banks the chinese military base town of Saga. Here in the middle of the barren desert were all the amenities you’d expect in an army town – pool tables, bars, gambling dens and places with dancing girls. Yes! Up and down the street walked gaudily made-up girls. And also shops to buy last minute warm gloves, hats or other cold weather accessories.
Soon after leaving Nyalam, we had stopped for a break and saw these kids in a tiny settlement. In the background, note the doorway to their compound adorned with yak horns on the lintel.
Once past the Lalung La (Pass), the drivers went off-road! There were no features to guide us, but the convoy of tibetan drivers knew exactly where they were going. This drive across a featureless plateau, up mountainside and down valleys, and through ravines, went on for most of the day!
Sishapangma is the highest peak in the region and during the summer, many climbing teams try to ascend it. They too go across this barren plateau and need permits from local authorities. Even our group needed permits from the chinese to travel to Kailash and Manasarovar. At tiny check posts, we had to stop to have our papers checked, and another opportunity for bureaucrats to line their pockets! And, it felt we had arrived at this check post during their siesta hour, for even though there were only two other cars ahead of us, we had to wait an hour to get clearance to proceed.Adjacent to the check post was a tiny, one room store/restaurant/home. I saw this mother and three kids comfortably settled. Btw, the locals love the ‘bindi’ and every time they see an indian woman, they ask for a bindi by pointing a finger to the center of their forehead. The women in our groups would oblige and from their purse remove and stick a bindi on the girl’s forehead.
At the check post, a family of yak herders came by to observe our convoy, but stayed a distance away and then walked away on the plateau.
These women came closer to observe and even posed for pics. These too walked away on the barren plateau. We had noticed this often. During breaks on seemingly desolate roads, some yak or sheep herders would walk by. I have no idea where they lived, we could not see any sign of habitation. Occasionally during driving, we could see a cluster of tents far away in the mountains. Perhaps, these nomadic herders stayed in such tent settlements.
Soon after lunch we headed out and drove along a ravine and climbed a pass. There we were treated to the fabulous Peigutso Lake (elevation 4400 m; 14,435 ft). And fortunately for us, the clouds had cleared dazzling us once more with a striking azure sky with bright cumulus clouds near the horizon. The turquoise blue of the water hushed us all, and we simply stared in silence at the beauty before us.
Some of the pics are indeed eye-popping. But while there in person and in real time – I did not enjoy it as much. It had been a few days without proper bathroom facilities; it was biting cold and the wind was relentless. I knew better than to test my energy in this rarefied air, but I also developed the characteristic high altitude-induced dry cough. We were all on a medication called Diamox, which helped deal with the high altitude effects – but only to an extent. The cough and headaches persisted. I had lost my appetite for the food, but knew I had to consume it primarily for the energy I’d require over the next ten days. While the sherpas made great efforts to cook vegetarian food, I just could not get anything down and was nauseous. For most of the trip I survived on honey over thick rotis and warm milk! And the stacks of candy bars I had carried from here and boxes of ladoos and mithai from mumbai!
Next on the Kailash Manasarovar Travelogue: Girl in Saga
To start at the beginning of the Kaliash Manasarovar Travelogue, click link below:
Rendevous with Sagarmatha (Everest)
Marathoner, Professor, Author, Citizen Journalist, Fitness Nut, Foodie, Meera's father, Hindu, Scientist, Photographer.
[...] our yatra, and Manasarovar is still three days away! Next on the Kailash Manasarovar Travelogue: Across the Tibetan Plateau to Saga To start at the beginning of the Kaliash Manasarovar Travelogue, click link below: Rendevous with [...]