Kailash Parikrama: Hiking Around Kailash, Day 11, 12 and 13
Approximate Elevation: 4,560 m (~ 15,000 ft)
The arduous journey across the Tibetan plateau had taken its toll on most of us. While the fabulous vistas and the serene landscape of Manasarovar instantly lifted our spirits, our bodies looked forward to a few days of rest. The toughest part of the tirth yatra (pilgrimage) still lay ahead of us: performing a parikrama of Kailash!
In a temple, Hindus generally perform a pradakshina of the deity by walking around it in a clockwise manner. Mount Kailash is the icy abode of Shiva and Parvati and thus in reverence, we were to perform a parikrama; same as a pradakshina, but walking around the entire mountain! This would take us three days and we had to trek rough terrain, cross streams, climb steep trails, jump from boulder to boulder and traverse a pass high in the mountains at 19,200 ft on the second day – rain, snow or shine! And we would be camping on the mountain side! Coincidentally, the hike over three days was slightly over 42 kms, the same distance as a marathon! I would do another marathon in a jiffy.
After Manasarovar, we shifted our base to Darchen, a tiny compound of sheds at the base of Kailash. There our tour organizers identified half of our groups as not fit to continue on the Kailash Parikrama. After spending so much money and the long trip I’d have thought these folks would be upset – but not! They were tired and sick and relieved they could stay back at Manasarovar. Of the rest, 20 were asked to hire and ride horses or yaks around Kailash.
I was one of seven considered fit enough to hike over the three days. I did not feel very confident though. I was still running a fever and having trouble with my breathing (small detail!). Here the concept of surrender came to the fore! Yes, surrender to destiny and move forward. If I had to pass from this world, what better place in the world than on a parikrama of Kailash? And importantly, there was the ego thing: There was no way I was going to return home without doing the parikrama of Kailash!
All of us hired porters to carry our small bag packs which held only essentials for the day. Mine had an extra pair of socks (I hate wet socks), a rain jacket to go over my warm jacket, an extra bottle of water (I carried one bottle on a sling), my secret stash of granola bars, laddoos and other snacks. I carried the camera around my shoulder and bought an inexpensive walking stick locally. The organizers arranged for yaks and porters to carry our tents and kitchen stuff. Several sherpas walked with us carrying emergency medical supplies and oxygen canisters. The folks who did not go on the Parikrama were to camp at Lake Manasarovar with a skeleton crew.
During this tirth yatra, we had to re-acquaint ourselves with the divine! There were none of the material or verbal symbols of divinity here. No temple with its stunning gopuras, or exquisitely carved mantapas. No shrines in niches and no priests chanting mantras and performing puja. Many were incredulous and asked: “There is no shrine here? Nothing?” Sorry, you have to engage the mind and see the divine outside the temple. Realize the nirguna formless, aspect of the divine. Obviously, there was no hundi here to collect donations, either. The divine was all around us!
The Land Cruisers dropped us off at the starting point of the parikrama. Just a barren, inhospitable valley with a pebbley trail. And it was grey, raining and cold! Not a good day to start on a tough trek!
Here Tibetans had constructed a mound of stone tablets. On each was exquisitely inscribed the Buddhist mantra Om Mani Padme Hum. These were apparently offerings of devotees from bygone eras. Some of the larger tablets had many rows of etched mantras.
A closeup of one of the tablets.
At the start of the parikrama, is a little archway called Yama dvar (Yama’s doorway). This region at the base of Kailash is considered to be the domain of Yama – Hindu God controlling Death. Further having sinned, we were not worthy of performing the parikrama. According to tradition, by passing through Yama’s doorway, we go through death and are reborn: pure of body and ready to perform the parikrama. How cool is that!We got out of our vehicles and huddled in the drizzle. This was a very emotional moment for everyone! Some us would go forward into the grey, while others would return to camp. Cameras went off in succession. Everyone wished each other well!
… and actually being reborn? the new brave me!
Here we have just set off on the parikrama on a grey rainy morning! it is expected that each of us would travel at a different pace and be separated from the others. Thus each of us is accompanied by our porter, who also acts like our personal guide. For the next three days, we were stuck together and resigned ourselves to Shiva’s care.
An example of the hulking mountains overlooking our progress on the parikrama, and forming a protective ring of mountains around Kailash.
Talk about devotion. We passed this British lady who was going to perform a namaskar, the entire way around Kailash. She would perform a namaskar, get up and place her feet where her hands were, and perform another namaskar, and so on. She wore a heavy leather-like apron on the front to shield here from the rough trail and had wooden flats strapped on her hands. She was accompanied by a couple of sherpas preparing her food and setting up her tents. Our sherpas found out that she was expected to take 25 days to perform this parikrama.
And here the trail was pretty flat. Later on we would be crossing streams and the next day we had to traverse piles of boulders – up and down – how would she manage? What drives a young woman to such heights of devotion? And a Western woman at that! Here we Indians were struggling to simply walk around Kailash.
Meet my porter – Pema! When they first assigned her to me – I refused and said I needed a stronger guy to help me around the parikrama (and if necessary pull me out of deep crevasses !!). But the Chinese cartel which organizes the assignment of porters turned a deaf ear and reminded me that this was based on a lottery and I was stuck with her for the next three days.She only spoke Tibetan, which I only knew how to nod to. Through one of the sherpas I find she is 14, like fourteen! She was part of the nomadic tribes which come here during the summer to find such employment. And she had already done this parikrama more than 20 times! I rested my case. And I generously shared my stash of laddoos and granola bars with her! I gave her my walking stick too!
Of course, while I labored in the rarefied atmosphere, she would walk briskly ahead and find a boulder to rest on. While I caught up huffing and puffing she’d would smile, get up and walk on refreshed. heh! What about my rest? Despite being relegated to the backwaters of Tibet and growing up in a nomadic settlement, she was a most charming person. If we had a daughter, she’d be her age.
More of the parikrama, later. really!
Click link below for the concluding post on the Kailash Manasarovar Travelogue:
Kailash Finally!
To start at the beginning of the Kaliash Manasarovar Travelogue, click link below:
Rendevous with Sagarmatha (Everest)
Marathoner, Professor, Author, Citizen Journalist, Fitness Nut, Foodie, Meera's father, Hindu, Scientist, Photographer.
Dear Arun, I am really thankful to you I dont know how many times I have read this article because I am planning to visit Kailash during june 27th 2012, I request your goodself to wish me success, You are lucky to get the permission of the almighty, this period I request you to pray for my successful yathra, lay my body on the powerful land.
Hi Srinivas,
Congratulations on make this commitment. I wish you every success for your Kailash Manasarovar Yatra.
May the grace of shiva be always with you.
Namah Shivay,
Arun
Arun
Once in a while, when I am in a very good mood or in a very down mood, I come back to read this entire thread.
I do not think I am physically strong to do it; but you do take us on this divine journey with your experience.
Thank you
Thank you Suri.
Good point you make. Because you wrote this comment, I went ahead and re-read this post and it still gave me goosebumps.
Don’t underestimate your self, when he call, you will go.
And I do plan on sending you a solicitation regarding the scholarships soon. Will do so in the next couple of days, OK>
Many Thanks
Arun
Hello Arun,
Thank you very much for your detailed description of the yatra. We are planning to go from August 1st to 13th. Your narration helped me get the right perspective and the mindset.
Even though everyone is telling me to train myself for it, I took it lightly. I better start walking everyday from today for an hour. I hope I can do it.
Hard to be prepared for all weathers yet pack lightly.
Please refer to any more posts you have that could help me with this trip.
Thank you. Hyma
Hyma,
Congratulations on making this ultimate yatra. Wishing you the very best.
I think you will do fine. Just walk to the grocery store and carry back groceries, every day. That should prepare you well
PraNayama absolutely helps. You still have time to practice it.
And, prepare for travel by putting on layers of clothes, so if the weather is warmer, you can remove the outer layer; if it gets colder, just remove the outer layer and so on. Only carry older clothes, so you can essentially discard them after use.
After our trip, our people were giving their jackets and else to the Sherpas!
Om Namah Shivaay!
Arun
Hi Arun,
Thanks for sharing you experience with us. I enjoyed reading it.
With the Grace of Almighty Lord I am planning to make a trip to Kailash Manasa Sarovar this June 2011.
I have a few questions that I would like to ask and clarify with you. I will send you an email. Would appreciate it if you can respond.
With best regards,
–Jayashree Kini
Hi Jayashree:
Wishing you the best in your Yatra ~ the pinnacle of all yatras. Would love to chat, am sending my details by email.
Arun
Interesting reading.
We are planning to go together by next year, me 73 yrs young and my better half 65.
Hale and healthy habits.
Ready to surrender,salute the Almighty and hoping for salvation too.
experienced everything in life so far.
including visiting Amarnath.
# full days c/o of heaven and nature only caring us.
Keep it up and reply with encouraging words to strengthen us.
mvv
Namaskar MVV for taking on this fabulous yatra.
Shiva’s grace is infinite and this will be a transforming event in both your lives. With your vast travel experience this will be relatively easy for the both of you. And remember, if you think you have reached your limit, you have to stop and say: “till here is where he wanted us to come.”
During the yatra, you will see nature in all its magnificence, and feel closer to the heavens.
And it will be easier to understand what the ancient rishis long tried to explain to us:
ALL THIS is HIS ANUGRAHA!
Bliss
Om Namah Shivaay!
Om Namah Shivay!!Thank you so much for your detailed description of parikrama which i heard in person from a person who had just returned visiting the Kailash and he was one among the 3 who were considered fit to do the parikrama.My parents are dreaming/planning to leave on the kailash yatra by 14th of August.Praying for their safe trip and also for an invitation from to shiva for us(my husband and me)to see HIM
Wishing your parents Shiva & Parvati’s grace during their Kailash Yatra.
Appears you already have HIS invitation.
And verily, something that will transform your life and work
Om Namah Shivaay
Hi! I blogged here a couple of months ago wherein I had mentioned about my forthcoming trip to MK. My 15th May trip got cancelled in the last minute,thanks to the travel agent and there I sat shocked and depressed,but it was His will that I would make it this time, I got in touch with another travel agent and could make it finally. returned on the 5th of this month.
I could remember your write up throughout my parikrama. I had God’s blessings and the whole trip went so smooth that when I returned I had this feeling that He led me practically holding my hand.
Otherwise I would not have returned without even touching my medical kit.
Thank you for your encouraging words!!!
Hi Janaki:
So fabulous to hear of your trip;
truly – mysterious are his ways!
but ultimately we know it all works out for the good!
Must have been an amazing yatra
Please do share more of your pics and experiences.
Om Namah Shivay!
Arun
Hi, I read your blog and thanks for maintaining such an informative site. My husband is away for the kailash yatra and i received a call from him just today that he successfully finished the 3 day kailash parikrama yesterday night. he couldn’t talk with me at length but expressed the trek was very difficult and it was more or less like a rebirth. I read all about the trek in your blog and imagined what he might have gone thru. Thank u.
Padmaja:
So fabulous to hear of your husband’s successful Parikrama. Re-birth is a good way to explain the entire experience and glad all went well.
Thank you for sharing the news with this community. and please do post more pics and updates from your husband’s trip.
Arun
16 may,2010 .
Thanks,i have courage to read your
inspiring kailash parikrama guide lines.
we ,my wife and i,are going for
kailash parikrama in next month from 15 th june
Baba Bhand .
Thank you for sharing your plans.
I wish you the very best. for me, it was a key moment in my life.
I hope that you will find the Yatra fulfilling and enlightening.
On Namah Shivay!
just read your posting. Incidentally I will be leaving on 15th may and I know what I need to be mentally prepared for. thank you for your posting!!! You are right. It needs more than fitness( divine blessings that come at complete surrender) to finish parikrama.
I wish you the very best during your Parikrama.
And you seem to have the right attitude ~ succeed, you will.
Om Namah Shivaya!
Arun
Hello Sir,
After reading this epilogue, it gave me live confidence on myself climbing the abode. I am sure that i can do it… Ur lines are really superb.. i took to Kailash before i visit it… Thanks a lot. Hari Om
Thank you; and glad this was useful to you.
Wishing you the best for your Kailash Yatra