After celebrating Meera’s birthday, I make a quick, solo trip to visit our Kuladevata (family temple), the Ramnathi Devasthan in Goa. For a day trip, there was no point in dragging M and Meera to Goa. We will plan a longer holiday to introduce Meera to Goa and our ancestral home in Kumta.
The early morning flight brought me to Ramnathi at the crack of dawn. The temple was open and I paid my respects to Ramnath as “Dhool bhaet”.
From my earlier post on the Ramnathi Devasthan
It is the tradition at Ramnathi and other Konkani temples, for kulavis to visit the deity as soon as we arrive – even before we wash our feet. We leave our footwear at the door and with dusty feet rush inside to pay homage to our father protector, guardian and closest confidant. Akin to the return of a prodigal son (or daughter); our father wants to see us ASAP, even before we wash our feet. This first visit is thus called “dhool bhaet” (dusty meeting). Only after we have visited the temple, do we visit the office, rent a room, freshen up and come back into the temple for a proper service.
This early, the office was still closed. So camera in hand, I walked across the road to a series of rice fields. The early morning light bathed them in an ethereal glow. I felt my burdens lifted: This is the life! I could spend the rest of our days here! Meera and M would love it here!
(click for larger version)
A path through the fields.
An adjacent field
(click for larger version)
Wandered around a bit, enjoyed a relaxing cup of chai at the canteen and chatted with locals. By then the office had opened. I got a room and performed a proper Puja and Abhishek.
Talking Konkani with the locals is always such a joy. I learn and notice new things on every visit. For eg, in Mumbai lingo we would have said, “I am off to pray at the Ramnathi temple.” But in Goa, we always say, “Ramnatha bhaetik aayla!” (I have come to visit Ramnath!) And “Ramnatha” is not uttered in a tone of formal deference. The grammatical form is that used for a close family member, that guy down the street, a buddy.
So it is our relationship with our Kuladevata, that of a father protector, a friend. To this Ramnatha, I poured the news of Meera, and the joy and completeness she brought to our family. I asked Ramnatha, to accept Meera as one of his daughters, part of our larger family (Vasudeva kutumbakam) and to ever keep Meera in his grace.
The lamp tower at the temple entrance; a distinctive feature of Konkani temples.
The dome over the garba griha (womb chamber, or sacred chamber)
My previous posts on the Ramnathi Devasthan and other temples in Goa:
- Ramnathi Devasthan, A Konkani Temple
- Dassara: Celebrating Devi’s Grace
- Flower sellers at the Ramnathi Devasthan
- Sacred Places: Avalanche of Christian Aid in India
- Mangeshi Devasthan
- Mahalakshmi Devasthan
- Goa Snippets
- Blue Skies: Ramnathi
Marathoner, Professor, Author, Citizen Journalist, Fitness Nut, Foodie, Meera's father, Hindu, Scientist, Photographer.
Osm!! Thanx for sharing!! I love the photos too!!
Thanks
Namaskar Shanbhagmam,
Please see following articles:
http://www.navhindtimes.in/ilive/ramnathi-temple-marks-450-year-anniversary-celebrations-release-souvenir
http://www.navhindtimes.in/ilive/tracing-450-year-old-historical-journey
This is excellent. Many thanks for sharing this important piece of information.
Shanbhag mam
Shree Ramnath Devasthan, Bandewade, Ponda, Goa
Charurtha Shatokattar Suvarna Mahotsava Celebration (450 years Mahotsav)
From
16th May 2011 to 21st May 2011
http://www.ramnathi.org
Oh Awesome.
Thank you Rajesh for sharing this.
Wish I could be there.
Namaskar Shanbhagmam,
By and large, Opposite Shiva, their will be a Nandi idol/statue in every Shiva shrine. But there is no Nandi in Ramnathi.
Yes Rajesh,
But it is not a Shiva, but Ramnath and belongs to the Vaishnava tradition. That is why in the garba griha, above the Ramnath there is the LaxmiNarayan.
Historically, it was a Shiva form, but our Muth transferred allegiance to the teachings of Madhvacharya and became Vaishnava. The Nandi was replaced by the Garuda-dhwaja.
But we have retained the Linga to demonstrated two things (in my opinion).
1. Indeed the divine is “Nirākār,” and
2. Ultimately there is no difference between Shaiva and Vaishnava.
Hope this is helpful.
Arun
Hi Arun
Really liked your pictorial blog. Customs such as “Dhool bhaet” – truly bring out the rich diversity of Hindu Religion. May these traditions be nurtured and continue for generations.
I am planning to visit Ramnathi this weekend with family. Please let me know the Temple Office timings – we will be reaching the Temple late in the evening. Any information on the facilities available in the rooms (like beds/ mattresses / water etc) would be most helpful.
Thanks & Best Regards
Satish
Hi Satish:
Thank you for your interest and support of our rich heritage. I think the office opens around 7 am and is open most of the day, except between 1 and 3 pm maybe.
They do provide mattresses, blankets, pillows, etc. Most rooms also have hot water, or they can bring you some.
I still carry my own: bedsheets, pillow covers, anti-mosquito plug-ins and personal toiletries.
You can (SHOULD) call the office directly and make a reservation, as the rooms may get full. Then ask about puja details. Particularly if you are a Kulavi and want to do a Lagu Rudra Abhishek, those start at 8 am and you need a ‘wet’ dhoti and small towel.
Remember, as soon as you get there, talk to Prakash Bhat (head priest) and arrange for breakfast, lunch and dinner at his house for a nominal dakshina. The best konkani meals you can get.
Have a fabulous visit and please keep us in your prayers too.
Contact Details for Shree Ramnath Devasthan
Ramnathi, Ponda, Goa 403401
Tel: (0832) 2335281; 2335041; 2335174
Email: inquiry AT Ramnathi DOT org
Hi Arun,
Thank you so much for your wishes and really sorry, I didn’t recognize that you are not India.
We were planning a HINDU / MAHARASHTRIAN VAIDIK WEDDING in a Goa Temple. Followed by a Dinner Party at Taj Exotica.
But….now…its not possible. I have just been to Goa and visited all the Temples near Phonda. No body is giving permission for this Wedding. So, finally we have decided to do it in a Lawn or a Hall
Anyway…Once again thank you so much taking your precious time to reply back my mail. It was really kind of you.
Thanks & Regards,
Hello Arun!!
Happen to read your blog while searching for Temples near South Goa. Would like to have some suggestion and some information from you.
My sister is getting married on 4th Oct. 2009. We are planning to have a Maharashtrian wedding in a Temple of Goa. But there are few obstacles….like-
1. We are not from Goa.
2. The Groom is not Hindu
3. We want Temple near Taj Exotica, South Goa (around 15 kms radius)
If we get temple Hall for the Wedding, no problem in that. Its just that I have no idea about the Temples near by this area. And here I need your help.
Can you please help me in this? Can you suggest me a nice Temple where we can enjoy this beautiful event of our family?
I know, without knowing you I’m asking a lot
Hope you don’t mind.
Thanks in advance.
regards,
Sayali Debnath.
Hi Sayali:
Thank you for your detailed comment and i wish your sister a wonderful wedding.
I hope you realized I actually live in Boston, USA and am not at all familiar with the wedding hall thing in Goa.
now all the family temples do rent out their halls – and they ‘may’ not care that the groom is NOT a hindu. But if you are not going to have a Hindu wedding, i don’t see how the temple can rent you a hall.
And importantly, all of our hindu/Konkani temples are in the interior of Goa, as a consequence of the Portuguese persecution and the christian’s destroying all our temples in the older parts of Goa.
Wish I could help more.
Gosh that is beautiful, the pics, the writing and the feeling I got from it… I pray too that may Meera bring lots more joy to your family
Thank you Rachna;
Visiting Goa and our family temple there always draws a strong emotional response in me. I hope that with time, Meera too will get to share in that joy of belonging!
Very nice blog, liked most of your posts.
Thank you Nandita!
Enjoy!
Hi Arun
first time here and must say you have a wonderful blog and i hv to read so much here.
The first three photos takes me back to my childhood days where i used to play and hv fun and had the opportunity to njoy the nature to the fullest which i miss very much.
Lovely read and photos
Thanks
Hi Sushma:
Thank you for visiting and leaving a comment. You are very kind with your words. you too have a wonderful blog; I glanced at it quickly and will do it more justice later!
Perhaps, that is exactly it – that the pics transport us to our idealized image of our childhood. Yes, nature was a big part of the fascination for us city kids spending summers with our grandparents in Bhatkal. Those were the days!
Enjoy and looking forwrd to hearing more often from you!
Best
We just returned from Goa. Had been to marshal, mardol, jambaavali, revana and mangeshi
. Had oppurtunity to see the Shivaratri Utsav at Jambavaali and Revana.
Hi Poornima,
Thank you for sharing that. The Shivaratri Utsav at many of the Goa temples is just fabulous. Actually my parents have been in Goa – at Ramnathi – for the last week to participate in the Utsav.
Hope you plan to post pics. We’d love to see.
Hope you had a beautiful visit; though I hear the Utsav is a very chaotic time to be at the temples.
Wow, what a beautiful post !! Just looking at these pics makes me go back in time..You know as kids, we used to hate it till we reached the Temples, with umpteen number of buses to be changed, hanging in them, and getting all the energy drained by getting chakkars on those ghat sections..But at the end of it, it used to be so serene and we wouldn’t want to go back..’Dhool Bhaet’, yes, funny but what we follow
..You should post some shots of the ‘Panto’/ rivers behind the temples if you have any..
Thank you Maya!
you are right. As kids, it was a pain to get to the temples! Cramped on the jostling ST busses! Thank fully, the Konkan Railway makes things SOOOO much easier!
right again. some of the rivers are beautiful – will have to shoot more pics!
Best Wishes!
Probably, end of this year. Are you still in India? I think u must have Air-India’s flight discount up-down pass tht’y you fly between Boston to India so frequently… hehehe
Take care.
Sonu:)
Ha ha!
A Boston-Mumbai Pass would be ideal!
Currently in Boston, and will be traveling to Mumbai soon – to see and cuddle the lil one!
And hope your travel plans materialise soon.
Best
Body- mind relaxing and soothing pictures…!!! I want to go back to India…:)
Hope you had a nice trip with lil one!
Take care.
Sonu:)
Ha hA Sonu!
Verily rests the spirit!
and the lil one is becoming a terror!
When are you going to India
The experience of going back to our native, to our roots is always so comforting.
The serenity the green paddy fields bring to out eyes is so priceless. The calmness and the oneness we feel with the soil – it sort of completes us. You have used the right words – your burdens are lifted away from your chest. You feel so much lighter, so peaceful and you know in your heart that everything will be alright.
The unassuming easy smile of the people and the unrushed way of their life is so inspiring for us to slow down and take it all in. They might not have much, but the peace they have cannot be bought with any amount of money in the world. That’s how I feel when I visit my grandfather’s place.
It’s very nice to know about “dhool bhaet”. I hadn’t heard of it before… so much diversity, so much to learn.
You say it well Gowri! Perhaps for all that I really look forward to visiting Kumta and the rest of ‘rural india.’
It all started with visiting my grandparents in nearby Bhatkal for summer holidays. They are no more, but I developed a love affair with the places. Yes! There I really relax.
One day I hope to enroll Meera in the school there named after my grandfather! That will be the day!
‘dhool bhaet’ isn’t that nice? There are so many such customs buried in our daily routines, we need to understand them better.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
Arun
serene and peace of mind are two things that came to mind when i saw these pics. thanks Arun.
Thank you Sia!
Good to hear from you!
and rightly – it IS serene and WoW peaceful!
Hope you are doing well.
Hey Arun,
Really nice to read abt ur trip. And lovely pictures, especially the second one. I feel one can spend hrs. and hrs. sitting here and watching. Wish life was so simple and we had nothing to do!
Sush:
Thank you ;
and you are right! one of those places where you can ‘just sit around and yap’ for hours; after a day, you can feel the relaxation in your bones!
of course, there is always a lot to do and decide on: walk around, take pics, decide which canteen to go, decide coffee or chai; ussal pav or dosas; lunch; how long to nap, where to visit in the evening, dinner; …
btw, your lj site can be abbreviated as: (works)
http://sumthn2say.livejournal.com/
Goa reminds me very strongly of Kerala. I definitely need to make a visit there at some point. It’s on my to-do list.
West coast of India is very similar from Goa to Kerala; I just love Goa and coastal karnataka because of the konkani population there and i can ‘talk konkani’ to everyone and eat delicious foods!
)
you should visit!
Why don’t you arrange a 4-week trip to volunteer in Medical clinics in the area – it will look good on your CV too!
and I can find you a volunteering stint at the Shanbhag School in Kumta!
Oh Arun, you made my heart weep with the pic of the red soils of Goa and the pink glow always present in the air. My first intro to India was Goa and how I love her and miss her still. And your descriptions of your kuladevata – how wonderful. I also could live there all my life. Maybe I could be a nanny to Meera. ???
Thank you Ganga:
I remember you mentioning the hospitality you experienced during your first trip to India/Goa!
Goa (and coastal karnataka) are still pristine; folks are still old-style and I just love it. That is where we have the Shanbhag School.
I hope to take a few years off and enroll Meera in our school there. She’ll love the cows and nature around!
Nanny? errrrr, sure! a word of caution – Meera IS extremely energetic, inquisitive and loves to head for the exits!
Am working on a Yoga-Cultural heritage center there to recruit students for week-long immersion programs. Lets see how this goes! And you can be one of the teachers!
)
Absolutely I would love to be involved. Probably won’t be back in India for 12 months, and must visit Rameshwaran to see progress of the Temple Cleaning project. But certainly I will also come to Goa again and visit the school. Let’s see how the year transpires.
Bodhinatha was here this week, how extraordinary it was. The city still rings with his vibrations.
Looks you you were all blessed with a wonderful visit. Awesome!
didn’t know about the temple cleaning project at Rameshwaram – visit there about a year ago, and surely it needed a cleaning
But what a beautiful temple, and I loved the legend associated with it! Of course, we all got doused with water from all 22 of the wells. Yaaaay! That will be another post! 
And yes! you have to visit Kumta. it is only 2 hours by train from Goa – the station after Gokarn.
Have a look at http://ramanathaswamy.wordpress.com. Still under development, but enough to see the details of the project.
…. and am loving the commenting thread options! Cool!
Absolutely, Smitha!
Here the experience is as pleasant as divine grace; everything is as it should; in its own time! No crowds – but for a few moments when a tourist bus disgorges eager devotees – and they are usually gone in a few minutes
I love to spend a few days, eat at the priest’s house and make it a relaxing visit.
you should definitely give it a try; and get that beach fix out in the first two days
)
What a pleasant sight. Having to go to Goa for a pilgrimage!! that sounds so lucky… imagine Tirupati! Long lines, two pathetic days of waiting in the temple complex even before getting into the sanctum sanctorum only to be shooed away -’padandi, padandi’ phew!
But Goa sounds so much relaxing and may be a ‘fun’ as well!!
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