Five years ago I wrote about the Dadar Flower Market, in Mumbai. It is tucked under the bridge next to the Dadar train Station, and like alien slime, oozes into adjoining alleys and walkways, filling every doorway and cranny. So jam-packed, my cousin cautioned, “don’t put your hand in your pocket, coz it will go in someone else’s pocket!” Aaargh! Only in Mumbai!
See my other Flower Seller posts:
But it IS an experience! Not just for colorful flowers, but to see up close how the poor make a living. And be bothered! Yes, I get bothered seeing young girls selling flowers for a living, when they should be in school! Politicians mouth big speeches about expensive projects to eradicate poverty. The money ends up in their Swiss accounts, while the poor fester near open sewers.
I want to be bothered! It is far easier, NOT to go; NOT to see. Stay home, play with Meera, take a nap, go to a nice restaurant for frothy coffee. You and I, we need to be nudged from our comfort zones; we need to wade through muck and see how the poor work and live. We need to be offended; get mad at impotent politicians. We need to be bothered. YOU need to be bothered.
As I edge my way through the crowds; my heart races and I’m in a zone. The din of the market is white noise, sharpening my thoughts and focus; I ignore the rotten ooze creeping in my sandals and in between my toes, impervious to odors of rot, the shoves and jostling. I don’t hear the screams and curses; I don’t feel the feet stepping on mine; of sweat soaked bodies pressed to mine as they slither ahead; a wet elbow crazes my cheek. I resist the temptation to pull my handkerchief and wipe my face. I smile.
I am mesmerized by the beauty here! See this beautiful girl above selling roses. She’s not more than 12 years old, but dressed in a saree and tending this stall, while she should be sitting in a class room, in a clean dress, or playing with friends. She’ll never know that luxury.
Admire the beautiful roses. Trapped in this life, waiting to bloom in your nice home.
They are so used to this. THIS is their life. This family was all smiles.
The yellow tarp casts an eerie glow.
Marigolds and other flowers sold here by weight.
Champae, super fragrant variant of the plumeria. One of my favorites. These were sold by the number, Rs 5 for each! Champae are Michelia champaca, thanks to Maya and Namrata
This girl had the only Neel kamal (blue lotus) in the market. She stood in the blazing sun, but kept cool under the umbrella, while patiently helping each find the best. Rs 50 for a dozen.
This beautiful woman observed my antics with a piercing gaze. She was too tired to smile.
On neighboring sidewalks this duo realized they were being photographed and the younger was all giggles.
When you work on sidewalks, you live on sidewalks. And that is where you feed the baby. Mumbai Meri Jaan, anyone!
But there is a God! All flowers here are woven with the starting end looped around the big toe. Yes, all flowers which end on the head of God, start the day at the dusty, tired feet of the working poor.
Each garland we brought was woven on the toes of these poor women! At home, we’ll sprinkle a few drops of water and then these flower decorate Ganapati during puja! After puja, we receive a small portion of these garlands as prasad – a sacred gift from the Gods, which we will treasure.
Fitting isn’t it? That which was woven on the feet of the poor, ends up on the most sacred of Gods. There is a God! And you know where to find her.
Beautiful – longing for the India that I love.
Thank you Ganga – it IS the India I love to complain about!
Where, so much beauty and sadness is all rolled in one!
Just beautiful pictures of a land I’ve not visited. And the outrage and discomfort is understandable…..
Thank you Katrina –
and yes – there is so much to love and yet sooo much injustice! I cry!
You have a beautiful blog, Katrina!
Arun
Beautiful pictures and this post brings back so many memories!
Quite hilarious that the flowers are on someone’s feet before they end up on idols and in the hair of women who won’t even touch the very women that make these gajras.
So much more to this flower market than meets the eye.
Manisha – thank you.
yes, so much to learn at a flower market and when you think of it, you wonder, do we really do all this?
Arun
Arun,
These are stunningly beautiful pictures of the flowers and the beautiful people selling them. You are opening my eyes to Mumbai and a land that I too have never seen
I found your comments touching and profound.
Mary in New Jersey
Thank you Mary for reading and dwelling on this post!
It is verily a beautiful country with beautiful people; so many people poor of material things, but so rich in heart!
Thank you for visiting.
Arun
Arun, I can’t believe there are so variety of flowers. Such a feast for eyes! Thanks for sharing them. Lovely pics.
Thank you Sonu,
yes, there were so many types of flowers, I didn’t know the names of more than half of them.
But beautiful!
Enjoyed your pictures and related to your sentiment. I captured a series of pictures on my way to Mysore a month back and each time I look at them, it is bittersweet.
Thank you Lakshmi for sharing your thoughts.
I do the same, when in india, I just shoot, shoot and shoot.
Once I return, I pause, view, re-view and analyze.
Looking forward to seeing your Mysore pics!
Arun
What a fact it is everything you mention here! It really pains me to see this just everywhere in India. Specially when we were in Goa this time, near the temples, there is a huge line of women selling flowers and garlands, and they all wait with much eagerness to see if we buy from them, all for a few rupees and their life depends on it!
Thank you Maya:
yes, I feel particularly bad in front of the Goa temples! As we approach, ten hands go up, offering the flowers and I usually pick only 1! so unfair!
Maya – did you see this post on the flower sellers at Ramnathi?
http://arunshanbhag.com/2004/05/19/flower-sellers-ramnathi/
have you posted your Goa pics yet? Looking forward to them.
Arun
arun – what a compelling post you’ve written. it is so important to see things that are painful, or difficult for us to change. the colors you’ve shown – and the flowers from the toes of the poor to end up as sacred treasures – life is amazing. wonderful, wonderful article.
Jessie -
so appreciative of your beautiful and thoughtful words. sorry for the delay in replying to them.
you say it so well ~ it is difficult for us to experience such pain, particularly as you mentioned, we can do very little.
When I visit I show compassion to all in my actions, smile at everyone there and don’t try to “get the best deal by bargaining them to death!” Many a time, I end up buying flowers, not because I need them, but because the person needed to make a sale!
and thank you.
Arun
Arun,
Thank you..
After going thr this post, with my gut wrenching feeling, wanted to express deep feelings about this beauty and the ugliness … and of the whole drama of life that we ALL play unrehearsed.
I feel lucky and thank God, but also sad, and angry to be on the otherside of the table.
You made my day going ….
/Suri
Thank you Suri –
and you say it well ~ beauty and ugliness juxtaposed in this life! So unfair. But you and me, we have resources and we have choices and we want to make a difference. And we do! in our own way!
and amazing isn’t it? we all do this ‘unrehearsed’, and importantly no one to guide us along the way. Amazed, I did not turn out to be a cruel fiend!
But we find our calling, we hear the faint music and we follow. The music gets louder and we know we are on the right track.
sorry for this long-winded, … thank you.
Arun
PS, list of scholarship recipients coming up.
Ohhh such beautiful flowers. I love Champe, miss it so much here.
Very touching post
Thank you, Shilpa!
and you know the (flower) market in Kumta is equally beautiful! heh – do you know the english word for Champe? Arun
Beautiful pics Arun…Brought back fond memories..I remember going to the market as a kid especially when we had to perform puja at home..
Thank you Rajita – good to hear from you!
Hope you get to visit Mumbai during Ganapati and see the market again.
OH!! What beautiful pictures and a wonderful and real post!
It all came up in my memory’s eye! It’s over 4 yrs, that I have been to the flower market in Dadar W, but I still remember it all! The crowd, the bustling , tempers flying and yet, the sight of those dewy flowers made me feel fresh! THANK YOU!
Hi Manasi – thank you for sharing your memories.
yes, what a beautiful feeling amidst all those varieties flowers.
BTW, you link goes to an unregistered blog. please check.
Arun
Arun,
Very sensitive write-up. I always wonder about the flower sellers. While growing up in Ankola our maid’s(we called her akka) family used to make garlands. They would start around 6 pm and my brother and I used to go sit with them and watch them work. The atmosphere used to be so happy. All these women had tons of issues to deal with but they would be just chatting, joking and laughing while working. May be it is the beauty of the flower which brings the best of the humans. Thanks for using this sight to enlighten on several social issues.
On another note, english name for champe is Magnolia Champaka. It grows very well in Southern California and Florida.
Beautiful experience with your akka’s family in Ankola! That proves that material abundance, beyond the essentials only disturbs our peace of mind. So wonderful that you got that beautiful opportunity.
Thank you much for sharing your insights.
Arun
Beautiful snaps!
There is a similar place in Hyderabad called the Mozamjahi Market, where there are innumerable flowers and fruits being sold. The place is filled with aroma that will sure make anyone dazzled.
Thank you Mona for that.
have never been to Hyderabad, yet have heard so much about it.
On one of these visits, must make a trip;
and will remember to visit Mozamjahi Market. Do you get to go to Hyd often?
Arun
Lovely pictures!! I understand the rage but what do each of us do about it ? Can we do something in our own small ways that would change the world we live in or do we just blame it on the karma theory and sip coffees and teas in our comfort zones!!
Interesting questions Suma. I don’t think I have the answers either. Certainly blaming it on Karma and retreating to our comfort zones is wimp-ish!
I think education is a good start – for all those kids out there; next would be political accountability! If India can build posh Airports, can’t we build a slightly better infrastructure for the flower sellers to do business with slightly more dignity?
Your thoughts are welcome!
Thank you.
Arun
Arun, I have only Keerlu and Aalambe photos from Goa
..Not sure if you went to Zambavali recently, but they are doing a whole lot of renovation and its goin to be even better! Was all in construction stages when I saw.
Champe is this I think
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michelia
Hmmm! Keerlu and Aalambe ~ Ha ha! delicious Khaana!
Did not visit Zambavali on this visit, so missed all the construction. May be heading there in Dec. The construction better be done!
Thanks for the link
Arun
Arun,
Amazing pictures ! Mumbai is and will always remain meri jaan ! Thank you very much.
Krishnan
yes, yes, yes! Krishnan!
but there is so much work … Undone!
it is sad.
Arun
Arun,
As always fantastic pictures.. I really feel bad how much they struggle for few rupees.. I have seen a lot of kids selling single roses at stations, signals ,parks for 5rs each. These are the kids who should have been in school. We crib in spite of all luxuries. Very touching writeup
Thank you Ujwal!
and yes, those kids selling roses, or books on the st – they come to all the taxis when stopped at the traffic light.
sorry for the delay in replying.
Best
Arun
Oh lovely post!!!
It is indeed ironic that the flowers we offer to God are woven at the feet of some of the most hardworking and resilient women. I hadn’t thought of it that way and loved how you brought this out in such a beautiful way. This is poetic justice. I wonder what the holy men would think esp. when they know that these poor folks who are probably not brahmins are weaving the flower garlands offered to their God.
God is everywhere! In your work, in how you treat others and in how you treat people less fortunate than you.
It is indeed a blessing to be born in the families we are born into and we must always be grateful for that.
Especially endearing was the photo of the women caring and feeding their children on the sidewalk. It always touched my heart to see kids playing on the sidewalk, small babies meeting their milestones when no one was watching.
Thank you Poonam – and sorry for the delay in replying to your comment!
yes, those orthodox, uber rigid brahmins would shudder at what they saw! and you are right, I am ever grateful for my upbringing and i seem to have turned out ok
yeah, that pic of baby feeding on the sidewalk was touching – wish I had a better pic; but could not really stand right in front of her and take the pic, you know.
Always so much to learn around Mumbai. Very humbling!
Best
Arun
Hello Arun,
Beautiful pictures!
Touching write up too.
BTW the champae flowers are also commonly known as champak, champa(Michelia champaca), not aware of any common English name probably because it’s a tree native to South and South-east Asia.
Best wishes,
Namrata.
Namrata -
Than you for visiting and your kind words.
And thank you for the info on Champae, I have incorporated it in the text. Many thanks. what a beautiful and fragrant flower.
Arun
The pics made me feel how much i miss Mumbai (Aamchi mumbai).Be it buying clothes for diwali or flower for Ganpati Chaturthi I was always excited to go to Dadar.That place is so live.
The pics are bright and look very alive.
Thank you for your comment!
ha ha – another mumbaiyya!
yes, a fabulous place which stays with us, despite traveling and living far.
Best
Arun
PS – microwave pedhas? You are making it easy to make pedhas! Aren’t you supposed to make the bad things, more difficult to get.
)
Hi Arun
Are you attending the MIT alumni functions this december, marking the silver jubilee of 1984 NSS batch?
Regards
Raveendra
Ravindra – I am not sure. I cannot yet finalize my travel plans are several other things are ongoing.
Sounds like its going to be a wonderful event.
Arun
Thank you for such a beautiful and thought provoking post. Visits to India for me are always a mix of so many conflicting emotions but I am ALWAYS drawn back and where I always leave most of my heart.
I always love reading your posts because you show me a Mumbai that I’ve never seen even though I’ve been visiting Mumbai every year for years (its where my mum grew up and all her family lives). And I love your posts on Kumta too – I live vicariously through them because I’ve only been to the Kanara coast 3 times in my life and loved them all.
O Thank you Priya for your very kind words!
I grew up in Mumbai and spent essentially all my growing years in Mumbai, except many summers were spent on the Kanara coast visiting relatives and stealing mangoes! Fun Fun.
What can I say, I was indeed fortunate!
Every time I go back, surprisingly, it is like I never left. The folks on the sidewalk wonder why they haven’t seen me in a while!
Thank you for your comment.
Hi Arun,
Indeed beautiful pictures.
To me the poverty behind your photos is not as obvious as the poverty you’ll meet at a similar market in for instance Delhi where I go each year visiting family (meeri patni hindustani hai). The poor flower vendors of Delhi will be even more destiture and not as clean and colourful as in your pictures – unfortunately. Not to mention the small kids coming to your vehicle at traffic lights.
Best Wishes,
Jens
from Copenhagen
Despite the poverty in mumbai, I see a lot of pride and contentment in Mumbai and all places in south india. But Delhi, and northern india is very different. Don’t know why, but folks appear very rough, even those who are well off. Then, what to say of the poor.
Congratulations to you.
and thank you for sharing your experience.
Arun
Hi Arun,
I’ve noticed the same difference between South and North and I totally agree with you.
I – as an outsider, a ‘ferangi’ – have asked our Indian friends and family members why the people in Delhi seem more rough compared to people from for instance Mumbai and further South. I don’t know whether I should mention it, but the answer to my question has always been: ‘It’s the Punjabi influence’… (hope readers of this blog will not be offended!).
Jens
I don’t think anyone will take offense, Jens
I suspect history is the culprit. In the North, the native Indian culture was essential wiped out by successive invasions by mughals and else. Thus for generations, martial skill-sets were required for mere survival. So Northerners have witnessed and experienced many, many atrocities. That apparently did not leave any time or energy for appreciating the finer qualities of humanity.
Now perhaps in a generation or two, we can achieve balance … and transcend our yesterdays.
Best
Arun
Arun, this is uncanny! I have myself noticed this difference between the North and South and have also come up with the same hypothesis!
As I re-read this thread, I am saddened at the suffering that our people have borne.
Best Wishes to you,
Arun
Hey Arun so nice work why don’t you try to get organisedstart to sell on web on be half of them
Thanks, I already have enough o my plate;
Look at Shikshan.org for some of the things we are doing to support education for needy girls. Will you support?
Arun
[...] Their restaurant is a very simple place on NH-17, catering mainly to day laborers. Life is tough for many. I get to see this first hand and be touched by it. In a way, this nourishes and impels me in all I do. Consider reading this post on the Flower Sellers at Dadar. [...]
[...] Their restaurant is a very simple place on NH-17, catering mainly to day laborers. Life is tough for many. I get to see this first hand and be touched by it. In a way, this nourishes and impels me in all I do. Consider reading this post on the Flower Sellers at Dadar. [...]
[...] Flower Sellers at Dadar [...]