Our recent visit to Bangalore was M's first, and she wanted to tour the city. My cousin was kind enough to let his driver take us around for the entire day. After a busy morning, we visited Kamat's Yatri Nivas in Gandhinagar to explore the Northern Karnataka cuisine. The northern part of Karnataka is home to hard working farmers and their hardier cuisine. The staple diet includes Jolada Roti (leavened bread made from jowar flour), served with butter, spicy curries and chutneys.
In the fourth floor restaurant, lunch is served on a clean banana leaf, and waiters in the traditional garb of a dhoti, kurta and topi, decorate the leaf with a dazzling array of multicoloured vegeterian dishes. The scallion, a few sprigs of methi (fenugreek), roasted papad, orange coloured spicy garlic and onion chutney, a tomato cucumber raita; lentil cucumber pachhadi, spicy brinjal (eggplant) curry, a greens dish and another lentil curry. Phew! Home made yogurt (or curd) is set and served in an earthern cup (see top right of pic). Fluffy rotis come straight from the outdoor cooking area (see next pic). I cautiously apply the butter, tear off a piece of the roti and use it to scoop each dish in turn. Finger licking yummy! As we finished each roti or curry, servers magically appeared with more of what we just finished. There was also a glass of buttermilk spiced with crushed ginger, chopped peppers, curry leaves and hing. After a few rounds I can barely chew a morsel, and as waiters lined up to serve more, I had to cover my leaf with my hands and insist on not being served any more. Of course, they also had rice and Kolambo, which I just could not partake of. Then they bring out the best … fruit salad with mango ice-cream! However full I am, I can always eat dessert!
All this for Rs 100. Yes, its about 2 US dollars!!! (That is how much a cup of coffee alone will cost you at one of those Western-styled Coffee shops in Bangalore or Mumbai).
We were so full, we could barely walk down the stairs and … *don't roll your eyes* we actually took a room at the hotel for a two hour nap. After freshening up and a nice cup of Kaapi; we continued on our bengaluru tour (pics in next post)
Making Jolada Roti!
At three such stations workers continually kneaded, rolled and roasted the bread on the pan over a charcoal hearth. The roti stays soft when roasted on the pan alone; if it is flipped over the open hearth, it roasts to a nice crisp. They serve both varieties.
Full Disclosure: Our relative owns the restaurant and I did not have to pay for lunch! 🙂
I’m at my workplace on the first day of the week (Ours start on Sunday :D) The server is not responding, guys are breaking their heads to fix it and I spend 4 hrs reading your blog….. I virtually travel to Amchi mumbai to Kumta to Boston and back at my seat!!
The journey was mesmerizing and me with my usual smiling face perplexed my colleagues, with some of them whispering “May be she is chatting with an old friend or hubby”….
I must really say you have an amazing collection of articles/pics/videos.
Glad that I found this site and the way you have shared your experiences is really great.
Thanks for making my day!!
Shilpa Shanbhag (BAHRAIN)
Ha ha! your colleagues must be thinking you are a true KarmaYogi ~ completely engrossed in your work and absolutely not a care! 🙂
Thank you for your kind words. I just enjoy eating, traveling, foto-ing and writing about it. Glad you are enjoying this too.
Looks like things are calming down in your area.
PS, sent email in reply to your DM on twitter.
I found this blog through Google mate. I kind of liked the theme alot.
Are you a member of digitalpont by any chance ??
Hi Sheila: Bangalore seems to be changing by the minute!
and the yatri nivas is relatively new (~ 10 years ??). Visit it on your next trip and enjoy the delicious foods!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts
Your trip to Bangalore is inspiring. That’s my home town.
I’m familiar with almost all the places you’ve mentioned.
I love to see the Cubbon Park, Vidhana Soudha, and the High Court when we passed these land marks while going to church in Benson town. MG Road was interesting. Lot of activities can be seen .
I do not know how I did not see Yatri Nivas when I lived in
Bangalore….maybe I’ll visit when I go to Bangalore…
Thank you Anitha:
How lucky you are to get the “insiders tour.”
I have only been there once and long for our next trip to Bangalore!
Just loved ur blog…My Cousin used to work in Yatri Nivas in the Kitchen and whenever I visit B’galore and yatri nivas, he used to take me to the kitchen area and feed me a lot. Sweet memories…….
So you are prolly very well versed with the cuisine from Karnataka! Hope you get to rest after the surgery. Best Wishes
Thank you so much for this entry Arun. I went HS in Hubli and college in Belgaum although I am from Mysore and Hassan( from the coffee estates). I am just checking my mails today after the op!:))