During one of our trips through Karnataka, we visited Hampi to see the ancient city of Vijayanagar. What a fascinating city! Under a UNESCO mandate, extensive restorations are ongoing. The temples are awe inspiring! But for M, the best part of the trip was our stay in the nearby town of Hospet. A busy, dusty town at the crossroads of the Manganese ore trade. Here we made camp at the “Shanbhag International.” There was nothing international about this place. Even by Indian standards, it was an average “Hotel,” but importantly it had a few air-conditioned rooms.
And before you wonder, the Shanbhags here were no relatives of ours. But the owner was a Konkani and hovered around the front lobby in his uniform white munda, white jhabba with a pocket stuffed with a diary and a stack of folded paper, slicked hair and heavy black framed glasses. Could have been one of my uncles, and I referred to him as maam. Quite an entrepreneur. He owned two hotels diagonally across a busy intersection called “Shanbhag Circle,” about a block from the bus-stand. While we stayed at the “International,” the one across the street was Shanbhag Lodge with the Shanbhag Restaurant, catering to the middle class.
Here in the “International”, he had a Bar plus Non-veg Restaurant and our favorite, the “Shanbhag Fastfood.” The fastfood catered to poor laborers. Only high tables and no seating – you stand and eat. So folks are encouraged to eat and move-on. You pay first and get coupons, which you exchange for food at the counters. All snacks (dosas, idli, vada, etc) were 5 Rs and chai or coffee were 3 Rs. Really! M and I had our fill for under 25 Rs (slightly over 50 cents).
It was not the money, it was the experience of eating here. The spectacle of buying coupons, getting the food, standing and enjoying the delicious fare. During lunch he also served sambar-rice for 8 Rs. The place was packed as laborers crowded for a filling meal. For dinner (10 Rs) he served a simple thali and I saw entire families eating here. You could feed a family of five for about a dollar!
We were in Hospet for about four days, ate at all Shanbhag restaurants and had a gala time. Highly recommend if you are visiting Hampi. There is a western touristy hotel nearby, but what fun would that be!
Before the pics, I share an anecdote. Taking a break from the blazing sun, M took a nap in the room, while I wandered the local bazaar and came back to the room with a couple of mangoes and some grapes.
I said: “Heh, the lady who sold me these fruits was very nice.”
She groggily replied: “Of course they love you; you never bargain!”
I said: “M, let me explain and then you tell me if I should have bargained”:
“I saw this push cart with fruits tended by an elderly lady. In my basic Kannada, I asked her the prices and got two types of mangoes and some grapes. She tallied and it came to 60 Rs. So I give her 60 Rs. Then she looks at me again, nods and hands 25 Rs back to me, saying “saaku” (enough). I insisted she take the entire amount, but she refused.”
I asked: “So tell me, what should I have bargained with her for?”
At the Shanbhag Fastfood, dosas are made right in front of you. We salivated watching these brown!
M pursing her lips in anticipation!
A nice dosa was chased by hot kaapi!
Today, she doesn’t remember the temples we visited, or the palaces we were wow-ed by. But ask her where she would like to go and without hesitation she will say: Lets go back to Shanbhag International and eat dosas at Shanbhag Fastfood.
On this visit to India, we won’t actually go to Hospet, but we will certainly scour the South to find great places to eat, which steal our hearts and make us want to come back.
We will be in Mumbai for a few days, so if any of you want to go for an early morning run along Chowpatty, drop me a line.
Have a great Thanksgiving!
I am hooked with all your writings and beautiful photos. It’s 5am in south Africa and I am on my iPhone enjoying your comments.
Thanks. Amazing technology; who would have thought.
i actually made some vada pav yesterday- lovely we all enjoyed at home.thanks.
Thanks for sharing that with us.
hello Arun, you are a good descriptive writer..giving good details of ur travels. I liked the cash details cos it gave me an idea of current prices.
nice pictures,too..though with my adsl connection it takes ages to load. Have you thought of compressing the images ? can be done through the printer’s program usually.
anyway, good luck in all ur ventures.
Thank you for your kind words about my writing! I try to capture my experiences in writing, and in some cases I seem to succeed.
Sorry about the slow loading of the pics. Will see what I can do about the size.
I was searching for Konkan Railways and and am glad to land in your blog. That dosa is so familiar to me. I grew up very near Hospet in Bellary and this type of dosa is sold commonly in the area. And oh, I have been to Shanbagh in Hospet too.
Thank you and sorry for the long delay in replying to your post! One of those which just slipped through the cracks.
And you have actually been to Shanbhag’s in Hospet! Yaay! So you know what I’m talking about.
Welcome to my world – the beautiful world of hot kaapi, crisp dosas and verdant fields of Kumta! :-))
Have not explored bengaluru much, but I am sure that dosa place is still there.
And thank you for your enthusiastic response to my posts. These are the things which matter to me and thus I write with passion – glad you enjoyed them.
This is my first time here! Love u’re posts! How did i miss it so far 🙂 Well anyway, i know this is an old post but i enjoyed reading about the shanbag fast food. I am originally from Bangalore and my Dad would take us many a times to this Shanbag restaurant on Residency Road… wonder if it is still there?? The Dosas look delicious and of course M looks restrained 🙂
I liked reading this article it made me feel really really happy that we all have different cultures to look forward to being at home and also I would love to try out the dosa……
Shanbhag is quite a common name in Karnataka and there likely is a Shanbhag restaurant in Bangalore.
This place in Hospet is quite unique. Visit if you get a chance!
or say Hospet !!
I thought this Shanbagh was in Bangalore…but hey I was not reading your post..only the blurbs and the photos.
Hampi is happening ~
Thanks Amarnath! Enjoy the other posts here too!
Great pics and yes its a treat for the eyes
amazing.. very very well ;).. ilike your image. so nice in my eyes